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Retro Jewelry

The term “retro” as applied to jewelry marks a period spanning from the mid-1930s through the 1940s. While not a period style, the jewelry from this period of time nonetheless has its own distinct style. Wartime government restrictions on the use of platinum and silver resulted in the increased use of gold and gold filled jewelry in retro jewelry.

Bicolor and tricolor combinations of rose gold, yellow gold and white gold were popular, with curving, asymmetric motifs based around the cone shape replacing the angular symmetric geometry of the Art Deco period. Also keeping with the austere wartime approach to fashion, fewer and less expensive gemstones were used; most popular were rubies, sapphires and diamonds that doubled as fashionable displays of patriotism in retro bracelets, retro earrings, retro rings, retro necklaces and retro brooches. In the 1940s, fashions became more flowing and feminine in contrast to the streamlined, boxy styles of the 30s, and retro jewelry increased in dimension to complement these more dramatic silhouettes. Flowers, animals, bows and metal formed in fold-like patterns were popular feminine styles. Women also wore retro charm bracelets and oversized bangles.

Designer Van Cleef and Arpels designed the “Ludo” bracelet, a honeycomb patterned wide bracelet with a buckle-shaped clasp, which was widely copied by other retro jewelry designers. The clip back setting was invented during this time, and earring styles were designed to emphasize the lobe. Women also wore pairs of dress clips, matching suites, and bracelet watches during the retro period. Beladora II carries a variety of retro rings, retro brooches, retro earrings, retro necklaces and retro bracelets featuring the distinct designs from this jewelry period.